Few things can top the year’s first boiled, buttered and lightly minted jersey royals – so small and so sweet – but once the season is more established, I’m free to experiment.
After I first made this salad, leftover miso mayo made its way into sandwiches and salads for the rest of the week. Be sure to crush the potatoes a little and dress them in some of the dressing while they are still warm, so they soak up more flavour.
Scrub the potatoes and put them into a large saucepan, cover with boiling water, season generously with salt and boil for 10-20 minutes. Their cooking time will depend on their size.
Meanwhile, snap the very woody ends from the bottom of the asparagus (about one to two centimetres – these offcuts can be kept in the freezer or fridge for a veg stock). Cut the stems into 2cm pieces and leave the tips whole.
In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise with the miso and citrus juice. Taste and adjust with more citrus or miso as needed.
Once the potatoes are tender to the tip of a knife, add the asparagus and cook for two minutes, then drain and allow to steam dry in a colander.
When they are cool enough to handle, put the potatoes into a serving bowl and crush them a little with the heel of your hand or a spoon. Add a tablespoon of the miso mayo and mix well. When the potatoes are almost cool, add the asparagus, radishes, spring onions or chives and the rest of the miso mayo. Toss to coat and serve.
An essential addition to every cook’s bookshelf, The Modern Cook’s Year will show you how to make the most of seasonal produce, using simple, hugely inventive flavours and ingredients. Divided into six seasons, the cookbook contains over 200 delicious vegetarian recipes interspersed with tips on everything from seasonal music playlists to flowers to look out for in each month of the year.